![]() ![]() If all of this looks good, I think your problem lies in the amount of refrigerant in your system. If it isn't working correctly, it won't be telling the computer that your A/C compressor clutch needs to activate. I'm not positive on how you can test this, though. There is also a pressure sensor, which, when the pressure gets low (I believe), it tells the A/C compressor to kick on. While you are in the fuse panel, you might also check to see if the fuse is good there (assuming there is one). You can use this diagram to see how the relay lines up (if not exactly the same, it should look something like this): You can also apply power to the subject (12v) relay while checking continuity. As long as they are the same shape, they should be exactly the same. Change this out with another relay in the same fuse panel as they are standard. If the clutch proves out to be good, the next thing you can check is to see if the relay itself is bad. Usually, the bearings will be the first thing to go out on the clutch. If you can manually engage the clutch by doing this, you can prove whether the clutch is working correctly. You can test the clutch by locating the relay located in the engine side fuse panel, then jump the power to the clutch pin. ![]() The clutch is designed to be turned on and off as needed. I'm not sure there is anything physically wrong with your clutch or belt. Does the fact that the clutch is only spinngin part of the time mean that I should replace the clutch? And if so, how do I do that?.Does the fact that the clutch is only spinning part of the time mean that I should replace the belt? And if so, any special requirements other than releasing the tension on the belt, remove old one and repeat for installing the new one?.Can the power supplied through the relay go in and out(causing the clutch to start and stop spinning)?.When I later turned the car off and turned it back on, the A/C clutch was intermittently spinning for a few minutes and then stopped spinning all together. After that I check the relay, and it appears to be good. From there I check the fuse, and it is still good. So I checked the clutch to see if it's spinning, and it is not. I connected a pressure gauge to the low pressure end of the A/C tubes, and the pressure wasn't dropping once I turned the car on (my understanding is that it drops as the clutch engages - if that is wrong, please correct me). A while back it was the freon according to the previous owner. Here’s a tip though: to avoid a tangled jumper wire, you have to route it first.My '05 Mazda Tribute (just over 200,000 miles) is having problems with the A/C. Since this method is all about supplying energy to the AC compressor clutch through the battery, no switches are needed for this to work. ![]() Third, attach the other end of the fused jumper to the battery’s positive terminal. Remember that it must also be connected to your AC compressor. Second, connect the fused jumper to the same side where you unplugged your wire connector. First, unplug the wire connector on the compressor’s front side. How do you jump-start your clutch? You only have to do three steps here. Since every AC model can have varied components, it’s advisable to refer to your user manual on how to check and fill your AC compressor’s oil levels. Now that we’re talking about oil, here’s a quick disclaimer: Always make sure that your AC is well fed with oil before doing any repairing. This process will only take a few minutes if your AC compressor has enough oil. If your AC isn’t compatible with the R134a type and is actually an older model, consider jump-starting your clutch. ![]()
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